Ice Climbing in the Canadian Rockies

1981, the first year that I instructed ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, what can I say? I'm still at it and still enjoying getting out on the ice. The range helps, this is simply put the best place in the world to ice climb. My late friend and climbing partner, Guy Lacelle, was the most accomplished ice climber in the world. He once wrote an article rating the best places to ice climb in the world comparing Norway, the US, China, France, Eastern Canada and the Canadian Rockies, the Rockies topped the list!

 I've logged hundreds upon hundreds of days ice and mixed climbing here in my home range, and been fortunate enough to have put up dozens of first ascents. As a guide I pride myself in the ability to come up with the appropriated route at the right time for my quests. I've got a lot of experince and terrain catalouged in my head and it helps me solve the questions of ambition, fitness, weather, avalanche hazard and fun. Climbing ice is a fine way to spend a winter's day.

 Half of my time is spent with novice climbers who are tying into a rope for the first time, and choosing to do that in winter. If you've never strapped on crampons and want to try it I'm happy to start out on some mellow ice and see how far we can take it. If you're already into it and want to improve I'm keen to teach and coach and help you climb better.

Price:   My basic day rate is $525.00 Canadian for a 1:1 guide to guest ratio, and $650.00 for a 1:2 ratio ($325.00 per guest). 2 guests is my practical limit on multi pitch climbs (Additional fees may apply to long days and difficult objectives). I can accommodate 1:3 ($705.00 day rate, or $235.00 per guest) and 1:4 ($760.00 day rate, or $190.00 per guest) ratios at single pitch venues -most commonly an instructional outing. Larger groups are possible with the hiring of additional guides, please contact me to make arrangements.

Season:   The Canadian Rockies often have the first ice of the year lock up in late September, into the middle of October. I usually guide the first ice of my season in early November. Early season ice is some of the most interesting that the range has to offer, thin silvery threads of ice protected with rock gear, closer to mixed climbing than classic fat Canadian blue ice. High and north facing is the norm early season and you need to be in good shape to handle the long approaches, fabulous to get up above tree line though! The season comes into full swing, so to speak, at Christmas time and runs into April. One year I even guided Bow Falls in the first week of May!

Some Ideas for good days out:

In the Ghost River

-Malignant Mushroom 55 m II, WI 5.
-the Sunshine 45 m II, WI 3/Aquarius 60 m III, WI 4 enchainment.
-Lacy Gibbet 300 m IV, WI 5.
-Anorexia Nervousa 130 m III, WI 4, and Weathering Heights 100 m III, WI4.
-The Candle Stick Maker 140 m IV, WI 5, and the Joker, 50 m III, WI 2-3.
-Wicked Wanda 60 m II, WI 4+.
-This House of Sky 500 m III, WI3-4+.
-Yellow bird 30 m III, WI 4, Seagull 30 m III, WI 4, and the Eagle 35 m III, WI 5.
-The Good, The Bad and The Ugly 45 m II, WI 4-5+.
-The Sorcerer 210 m IV, WI 5.
-Hydrophobia 150 m V, WI 5+.

In the Kananaskis Country

-Amadeus 55 m III, WI 4+ of M5.
-Chantilly Falls 100 m II, WI 2.
-Moonlight Falls 110 m III, WI 4.
-Snowline 110 m III, WI 4.
-A Bridge Too Far 300 m IV, WI 4+.
-Kidd Falls 55 m IV, WI 4.
-Sinatra Falls 350 m III, WI 2.
-King Creek 15 - 60 m II, WI 2-3.
-Whiteman Falls 95 m IV, WI 6.
-Red Man Soars 55 m IV, 5.10, WI 4+.
-Parallel Falls 150 m IV, WI 4.
-R & D 50 m III, WI 4+.
-Lone Ranger 120 m IV, WI 3.
-The Chalice and The Blade 70 m IV, WI 5.

In the Canmore Area

-Heart Creek Falls 45 m II, WI 2-3.
-Arterial Spurt 150 m III, WI 3.
-Twisted Sister 300 m IV, 5.7, WI 4.
-The Junkyard 20-60 m I, WI 2-3.
-His 15 m III, WI 4-5, Hers 15 m II, WI 3-4, and Grotto Falls 55m II, WI 3.
-Coire Dubh 250 m II, WI 3, and the Integral 550m III, 5.5-5.8, WI 3.

**To Be Continued

Leading Oh Le Tabernac 55 m III, WI 5+, on the way to the first ascent of Les Miserables 80 m IV, WI 6+, January, 1992.

Redman Soars, one of the classic mixed climbs of the range.